Hey guys!
For my first non Cygnar mini, I chose Reinholdt because he is so very different from the Warmachine models I painted before.
As I was prepping him, I found that the edge of his trenchcoat was wider than the lip of the base, making it seem like he was hovering inches from the ground. To fix this, I chose a slightly different approach then usually. I laid down some PVA glue and sand before I mounted the figure on the base, to even out the space between feet and ground. Then I glued Reinholdt down with some Green Stuff in the slot, to give a nice and tight connection. For priming, I used GW's Black Primer, as I wanted the fig to have a more muted feel - even though I selected very bright colors for parts of him.
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The base before mounting the mini |
As the coat is the most dominant feature, I gave it special attention. I started out with two thin coats of VMC Chocolate and gave this a wash with Devlan Mud. When this was dry, I cleaned up the whole coat with the basecoat color again. The first highlight was done with VMC Leather. To lighten the coat even further I used VGC Snakebite Leather to lighten the VMC Leather in steps, always making sure to work wet in wet for a nice blending effect. For the lightest parts of the highlighting process I concentrated on the top parts of the folds, as light would have a more pronounced effect on these areas.
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First Coat of VMC Chocolate |
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Second Coat |
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Washed with Devlan Mud |
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First highlights on the coat |
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For the skin of Reinholdt, I started with a basecoat of Dark Angels Green. I then used VGC Sick Green, Scorpion Green and Livery Green in consecutively lighter drybrushes and pure Livery Green for some final edge highlights. To tie the colors together, I used a wash of Thraka Green.
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Some other basecoats are applied |
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Bag is done in VGC Snakebite Leather |
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All basecoating done |
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First drybrush: VGC Sick Green
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Second drybrush: VGC Scorpion Green |
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Third drybrush: VGC Livery Green |
For the boots and bowler I used a 50:50 mix of Dark Gray and Black, highlighting the mixture with gray. To tone the highlights down, I then used 3 washes of Badab Black.
The metal parts are all done with Vallejos Liquid Gold range. I used Copper as a basecoat and layered Red Gold over it. For some definition I glazed the parts with a thin layer of Ogryn Flesh.
The front half of the base rim was painted with Liquid Gold Rich Gold to distinguish between back arc and front arc.
When all the painting was done I used static grass around the feet of the mini to further hide the gap between feet and base, which is quite visible in most of the pictures. I also used a bit of Vallejos Light Sienna pigment on the boots and bottom part of the coat, to tie the mini in better to the work I did on the base.
Finally, some shots of the finished figure:
I hope you enjoyed this step by step!
As always, enjoy and have fun,
IK-Painter
Depends on the size of the figure and the detail level. As a rule of thumb you can say, that character models and solos take longer to paint, because they are more detailed than troops.
ReplyDeleteReinholdt for example took me about 4 hours.
As for brushes, the ones I use most of the time are sable brushes for my acrylics and synthetics for the alcohol based Liquid Gold. The sables I use are http://www.fantasyladen.de/pinsel/thumbs/5246_sm.jpg
Cheers,
IK-Painter